Right when I was going to start gushing about California King Salmon, they stopped showing up. It got a little windy last week and that often serves to disperse the schools for a little while, so here we sit, all dispersed, eating expensive Canadian Kings. These fish have been damn good really, better than the average Canadian fish, and if I squint real hard, the word “Canada” almost looks like “California”. But it still ain’t. To me summer is California King Salmon, Albacore Tuna, Local Halibut, Brentwood corn, blueberries, figs, and later on tomatoes. Oh yeah, and nectarines. God, I love those white nectarines. A real season marked by real food. That shit gets me exited. All seasons have their twists, but nothing shouts louder than summer. You have to look a little harder in January but the shifts are constantly happening. I don’t mind digging through the perma-frost for a seasonal jewel. So anyhow, the King Salmon season is not over, it’s just experiencing what in a “normal” year would be a mid-season lull. Unfortunately that lull occurred over the same four days that made up the last of “our season” below Point Arena. But not to worry, at least too much, as California is open from Horse Mountain down to Point Arena from July 15 until July 29, and then re-opens for the month of August in the same area with whatever quota that went uncaught in July rolling over into August. Confused yet? Don’t know where the fuck Horse Mountain is? Or Point Arena? Well, leave it to the trained experts (that’s us) to break it down for you: Horse Mountain is just north of Shelter Cove and Point Arena is just south of Fort Bragg. This translates to the Mendocino County Coast, as well as smallish portions of Sonoma and Humboldt Counties. All fish landed will pretty much have to be offloaded in Fort Bragg. That’s just the way it be, but at least we should see some fish between now and the end of August. In the meantime, why not use the Alaskan Sockeye Salmon? These fish are really nice. They have great meat color and a reasonably good fat content. I know that you size queens out there are all pissy about a 5-7 lb. fish, but get over it. They are beautiful, available, and reasonably priced. For Christ sakes, use what nature offers up in season instead of whining about 20 lb. Kings of yore. They possibly represent the best value in a wild salmon. Also, anytime now we will be seeing Cohos arrive on the market and these should also be a reasonable alternative to Kings. The Coho stocks appear to be very healthy as a result of some uncharacteristic good management practices.
It’s not just California King Salmon that tightened up, but damn near everything fished on the west coast. California White Bass and Yellowtail both have slowed down considerably and the prices reflect that. Once again, I think this is just a seasonal lull and we could possibly expect another deluge of fish once the weather cooperates a bit. And Petrale, holy shit! Every summer we have to re-experience the pain when the shallower waters are shut and they have to go deeper for the fish. This year, there is an added wrinkle in that they cut the remaining quotas by 50% for what amounts to the rest of the year. This has kind of left people in the industry scratching their heads as there has been no decline in landings; in fact, they have risen slightly. This all based on computer models by fucking bureaucrats punching in worst case scenario data despite evidence to the contrary. It’s what happens when science is replaced by politics as a primary management tool. What we were seeing in the thousands of lbs. a few weeks ago, now is in the hundreds. But we will embrace the change. Let the fish spawn in peace. We will, of course, be offering up alternatives, none of which you will like much. And like the swallows to San Juan Capistrano and the buzzards to Hinkley, the Petrale will return in the winter.
Alaskan Halibut shows no signs of weakening. They started the season with reduced quotas and high prices and here we are mid season with even higher prices. I’d like to tell you that this just another seasonal lull, but I would be lying. Not that I am particularly bothered by that, but I am just too lazy to build a case for the lie. You know, sometimes there’s lots of fish and it’s cheaper, and sometimes there’s less fish and it’s more expensive. Spin the big wheel.
Now for some really good news: I am hearing that it should be a good August for Soft Shell Crabs. Usually, by the 4th of July, we are putting those things behind us for another year. Often they make a minor comeback in late summer that we try to ignore. This year, if they get reasonable enough, we will re-visit them, albeit reluctantly. You already know how I feel about them, so it’s probably best if you don’t bring it up.